Quinten Mestdagh is the graduate of the Antwerp Academy. For his 2017 Graduating collection designer was inspired by ripped up publicity panels in the Parisian subway and his “love and passion for fashion photography and imagery translated through a strong graphic identity.” The result was a playful and colourful collection.
In his interview Quinten Mestdagh says, that the starting point for the collection was the concept that showed the power and strength of fashion photography and fashion imagery. The designer have been attracted to highly stylized and iconic fashion images in magazines and advertisements and they were the main inspiration for starting the collection.
At the Paris metro stations the advertisement posters was ripped off and seeing these ripped advertisements, Quinten create the idea of an act of aggression on a beautiful picture, a kind of disruption of an image.
Quinten Mestdagh make collages and 3D paper compositions. Glossy pictures of women’s faces are disrupted by paper rips and shreds resembling the damaged advertisements, creating a tension and roughness in contrast to the beauty showcased in fashion photography.
The shapes of the Quinten Mestdagh clothing are clean and architectural. They had an elegance of mid-century couture gowns, but also a kind of static and strong feeling that worked really well with the impact of the prints.
The designer used trompe l’oeil effects by printing the paper collages on different fabrics. This way, it has the effect and lightness of paper but the fabrics have enough stiffness and structure to hold the shapes. He also worked with pleating in full skirts where the two pictures are fused together to recreate the feeling of rotating billboards.
Most of the women in the prints are fashion icons of the 50’s and 60’s like Penelope Tree. Quinten placed them next to contemporary models like Karen Elson to get the contrast between beauty ideals and tendencies from then and now.
The fashion world is celebrating diversity: models that divert from the outdated ideas of conventional beauty are very popular. Melanie Gaydos is among the new faces leading the charge. She is 28-year-old and ‘unique’ due to her rare genetic disorder called ectodermal dysplasia, which has prevented her teeth, pores, nails, cartilage and bones from developing.
Gaydos refuses to wear dental implants or a wig because she is “more comfortable with myself how I am”.
Melanie has more than 121,000 followers on Instagram, says that social media has provided ‘a diary or platform for people to really express themselves however they may like’
Carlo Volpi born in a small town near Florence, he grew up amongst cones of yarn and knitting machines: both of his grandmothers worked for a very small knit factory in the village and from them he inherited the passion for his craft.
At The Royal College of Art he was selected as one of the 12 Texprint finalists and was awarded one of their prestigious prizes at Premiere Vision in Paris.
In 2014 Carlo founded his eponymous label: the same year he received an award sponsored by the Haberdashers’ and Framework Knitters companies that enabled him to set up a studio at Cockpit Arts. In 2015 Carlo was selected by Sara Maino, senior editor of Vogue Italia, to show his collection during Milan Fashion Week.
In 2016 Carlo was selected amongst one of the six finalists of the talent Scout competition “Who Is On Next”, promoted by Vogue Italia and Pitti Immagine, and won first prize.
Carlo’s work is characterised by a vibrant clash of colours and an eclectic mix of stitches and textures.Traditional hand crafted techniques are reinvented, updated and joyfully mixed with the latest fashion manufacturing technologies, creating exclusive and limited pieces. All of his work is produced in London and in Italy by himself and a small team of knitters.
“My point of reference is irreverence; I am interested in the parameters we use to define what we consider attractive or ugly. This is the right way to reach a new ecstatic moment. Beauty to me conveys only a sense of immobility, dullness and repetition. Ugliness disobeys aesthetic standards and for this reason I recognize its ferment, creativity or innovation” – says Carlo Volpi.
Pierre Debusschere – Belgian director, photographer and curator. Debusschere utilizes innovative technologies to create high impact visuals.
Debusschere launched his career at Dazed & Confused in 2008. Shortly after, he was invited to work with Nicola Formichetti on an acclaimed digital content application for Vogue Hommes Japan and Dior Homme.Pierre Debusschere’s editorial include V Magazine, V Man, Numéro, AnOther Magazine, Document and Nowness. Debusschere has created striking campaign films for Louis Vuitton, Dior, Y3, Hugo Boss, Costume National and Raf Simons.
Pierre Debusschere directed music videos for Beyoncé’s self-titled visual album as well as creating a full range of campaign images (and a film inspired by the seven deadly sins) for the 2014-15 season of the National Opera of Belgium.