By Melnyk Myroslav Tarasovich,
assistant Professor, Ph. D.,
Kiev Institute of decorative arts and design named after Mychailo Boychuk
The majority of researchers called Alexander Exter the founder of Ukrainian Cubo-futurism: its logic, colours, emotion developed European cubism and futurism on Ukrainian national basis.
In Ukraine, Alexandra Exter traveled from village to village, collecting samples of folk art. On the basis of this material he made designs for fabrics, garments, shawls and scarves. The influence of Ukrainian art in her works is felt not at the level of interpretations, but at the level of attitude.
Exter’s experiments in the field of theatrical costume and body art were innovative: with the geometrization of forms, colors, the effects of the dynamics and emphasis on the frame elements she created the quintessential images of the characters.
Exter also created fashionable suits, taking an active part in the work of the Moscow “Atelier”. She participated in exhibitions and competitions, publishing her sketches and articles in magazines – doing her own variant of the most fashionable in the 1920s “Art Deco” style. With her extravagant combined colors, materials, details, Exter often ahead of its time.
At the beginning of XXI century V. Exter reconstructed in Lilia Pustovit collection of apparel and accessories “Aelita” (2008). Her works inspire many young designers and her main principle – “more creativity and less provincialism” is relevant not only for modeling of the costume, but for the entire Ukrainian contemporary art.