Quotes by Myroslav Melnyk:
Fashion in a more or less modern sense of the term emerged in the late 19 – early 20 th century. That’s when it began to be seriously studied by sociologists. Thorstein Veblen, Georg Simmel, Roland Barthes, Jean Baudrillard justified why the fashion occures, as far as actual consumption of its society. Modern scholars often ignore this scientific base. But there are even mathematical approaches to the ways of springing and distribution of fashion …
If we analyze the history of fashion, it is clear that it was repeated all through the decades-long cycles of 40 years: 1910 th embodied in the 1950th, 20’s – in the 60’s … After that probably fashion was tired of itself. Because in 90 years it did not happen again, but on the contrary – everything was rejected. But with the year 2000 some attempts to create something new began to occur… And what happened after 2010? The virtualization of everything…
Fashion is virtualized. The codes in a fashion become more complex: all ciphers not on the brands, but on the collaboration of brands with brands, brands through the brands … For example, H & M by Kenzo… And the main thing now is to create newsworthy information. And in fact it does not matter what they do, because hype is already there, the excitement is there and all are waiting for is, so all this will be popular!
Fashion is a psychological phenomenon. And there are its own laws in the psychology: how a trend is infected the masses of people. If we analyze all this we will have a completely different view on fashion. A view of not glossy magazines or fashion blogs.
In fact, few people know the difference between a “trend” and “tendency “. It seems that these are synonyms. If we delve into the etymology of these words, we will find out that the tendency is a direction which is given by the fashion industry, and the trend is a ball which rolls over. A tendency shows where to roll, but the way it will roll – successfully, massively, popular – depends on whether a tendency will become a trend, will society evaluate it, whether people will want to wear what the tendency dictates.
I passed a way from economist to fine art expert. Yes, I went to this for a long time: studied, worked as an economist in the workplace, as a cutter in the studio. A fashion is a field which connects two equally important parts: the economy, rationality and emotion, art. Fashion is a balance between these two factors. It is my education that gives me the right to see a holistic fashion…
My first article was a manifestation of postmodern culture in fashion. In fact, the art is forward the fashion, that is why designers do not need to read fashion magazines, they need to go to the museums of modern art!
… I researched the era of modernism in fashion. It was then when the design was an art. But art without rationality can’t survive today. The works of Christian Lacroix was shown in the museums, he received many awards, but the fashion house was ruined … There must be an economic vein even in art.
From the 1950-1970th began a diversification of fashion houses with licenses, brands, moving production – the start of business, the product itself was less important, people want a brand. Now we are still very dependent on labels. The real piece of clothing is not very important. Important is by whom it was made, who else wear it. These are the emotions, the story, the impression we are buying. Cult.
This cult is made with the help of advertising, PR and promotion. It imposes on us all very diplomatically; we begin to think that this is all we have to have madly. The people are under informational attack: which model is in editorial, who of stars used a perfume, who of the celebrities were involved in the designing of the collection … Such a massive advertising information gives us the sum of all associations, which encourages to buy a thing. “If you’re not a brand, then you do not exist” – it’s the slogan of modern fashion. You can be branded with a reputation of your own, flashing at parties, not only with quality fabrics and unique styles. Scandal and stardom remove the filter of perception – we heard something and saw a clothing brand, which we heard of, and then we buy it. That is the way the stars are now engaged in designing clothes. This is ridiculous.
The time of gloss is over, as the time of print books. Another generation of people came and they are raised otherwise. If a person publishes his thoughts on the keyboard, it makes no sense to give him a notebook and say: write. Electronic facilities are mobile – this is a plus. The magazine comes with a delay – as a mean of obtaining of fresh news it is irrelevant. As a mean of obtaining an aesthetic pleasure – it can be. So I think that magazines should carry more art and less fleeting trends… All photos from the gloss appear on the Internet in one moment, the fact of novelty has faded, but it is the main for the magazine.
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Myroslav Melnyk )